Mouse tester.
Click, scroll and move your mouse below. Every button, the wheel and your cursor tracking are checked live — including the exact millisecond gap between two clicks, which is how you catch a worn switch double-clicking on its own.
Mouse button, scroll wheel and tracking test
Buttons & scroll wheel
TestedClick the buttons and roll the wheel here
0
Left
0
Middle
0
Right
0
Back
0
Forward
Scroll wheel
- Upnot detected
- Downnot detected
- Tilt leftnot detected
- Tilt rightnot detected
On a laptop touchpad, or a mouse without back and forward buttons, those buttons cannot be tested and will stay at zero. That is expected, not a fault.
Double-click test
TestedDouble-click in this box
Any button — left, right or middle
Not measured yet
The exact gap between your two presses appears here, with what it means.
Cursor tracking
TestedMove the pointer across the box. A continuous line means clean tracking; gaps or spikes mean the sensor is skipping.
0 points
Everything runs in your browser. Nothing is uploaded, no account needed.
In short
- Every button, the wheel, the tracking and the click timing are checked in your browser — nothing is installed or uploaded.
- A button that never counts has a failed switch. A press registering twice under 40 ms apart is a worn one.
- Buttons reading zero may not exist on your mouse, and Firefox never reports side buttons at all.
- Mice usually fail one part at a time, so the useful question is which part.
What this mouse tester checks
This mouse tester checks the four things that actually fail on a mouse: whether every button still registers, whether the scroll wheel reports in all four directions, whether the sensor tracks movement without dropping out, and whether a switch has started sending two clicks when you pressed once. It is a mouse test online that runs entirely in your browser, so there is nothing to download or install and nothing is uploaded. It works on Windows, macOS, ChromeOS and Linux, with a desktop mouse or a laptop — the only differences are the browser limits listed further down.
People arrive here looking for a mouse click test, a left click test, a right click test, a test for the middle mouse button or the side buttons, a mouse button tester or mouse key tester, a scroll wheel test or a double-click test. Whatever it is called, this is where you test mouse buttons and check the rest of your mouse. They are all this one page — every check runs at once, and you can ignore the parts you do not need.
Most mice do not die all at once. One switch begins to bounce, or the wheel skips a step, while everything else keeps working — which is why "my mouse is broken" is usually a question about which part.
How to use it
- Press every button inside the bordered test area — left click, right click, the middle click on the wheel and any side buttons. Each one lights up on the diagram and counts.
- Roll the wheel up and down, then tilt it left and right if it tilts. Each direction ticks off separately.
- Double-click in the double-click box. The exact gap between your two presses appears in milliseconds, with what it means.
- Move the pointer across the tracking box in slow loops and watch the line it draws.
How to read your result
This is the part most mouse checkers leave out, and it is where a test becomes useful rather than decorative: any mouse input test can show what your mouse sent, but not what that means.
Left, right, middle and side buttons
The mouse click tester counts left click, right click and middle click (pressing the wheel down) separately, and the back and forward side buttons too. A button that lights up and counts is working — the switch closed and the browser received it. A button that never counts has almost certainly failed, and that is a hardware fault no setting will fix. Before concluding that, check it has not been remapped in your mouse's software, and remember that a button reading zero may simply not exist on your mouse.
The double-click interval
The mouse double-click test times the gap between two presses. A deliberate double-click lands somewhere around 100 to 300 milliseconds apart. Firmware inside the mouse already ignores bounces of roughly 2 to 4 ms, so anything that gets through under about 40 ms is not your finger — it is the metal contact bouncing as it closes, which is what a worn switch does. The measured number is always shown, because 40 ms is a practical threshold drawn from switch behaviour rather than a defined standard.
Scroll wheel
The mouse scroll test reports each direction as detected or not detected, and deliberately nothing more. Browsers report scroll amounts in units that differ between browsers, operating systems and devices, so any tool claiming to measure your scroll distance or score its accuracy is inventing the number. Direction and occurrence are the honest measurements.
Cursor tracking
The line should follow your movement continuously. Gaps mean the sensor stopped reporting; sharp spikes to one side mean it reported a position that your hand never visited. Both usually point at the surface first — glass and glossy desks defeat optical sensors — then at dust on the sensor window, and for wireless mice at interference or a low battery.
It doubles as a mouse jitter test: a jittery sensor draws a trembling line where your hand moved smoothly, or wanders while the mouse sits still.
Where results differ by browser and device
- Firefox does not deliver side-button events to web pages, so back and forward will read as untested there even on a mouse where they work. Chrome and Edge do report them.
- A laptop touchpad has no middle or side buttons, so those rows stay at zero. Two-finger scrolling and tilting are still tested normally.
- A touchscreen cannot be tested here at all. A tap is not a mouse button, and counting one would report a working mouse to someone who has none.
The method behind each test, and the places these measurements stop being exact, are set out in about this site.
When a mouse is worn out, and when it is fixable
Click switches are rated in millions of presses — commonly 10 to 20 million on current mice — but that figure is a manufacturing average, not a promise. What actually ends most mice is a single switch starting to double-fire, and that is a repair rather than a replacement: the switch is a small component that can be swapped, and the rest of the mouse is usually fine.
Replace rather than repair when the cable has broken inside the housing, when the sensor drops out on every surface you try, or when the mouse is still under warranty — in which case claim it instead of opening it.
The other tests on this site
If the buttons check out but something still feels wrong, the fault is usually timing rather than the switches. Measure your mouse polling rate to see how often it reports and whether those reports arrive evenly, or run the click speed test, which counts your clicks per second and flags any that a switch produced rather than your finger. If the cursor moves too fast or too slowly, that is a DPI setting rather than a fault, and if the mouse is not responding at all, start with mouse not working.
Frequently asked questions
What is a mouse test?
A mouse test checks that each part of a mouse still reports correctly to the computer: every button, the scroll wheel in each direction, the sensor that tracks movement, and the timing between clicks. It matters because a mouse rarely fails all at once — usually one switch starts firing twice, or the sensor begins skipping, while everything else still works normally.
How do I test if my mouse is broken?
Press every button and watch whether each one registers: a button that never counts has a failed switch. Then double-click and read the interval — presses under about 40 ms apart came from the switch bouncing rather than your finger. Finally move the pointer across the tracking box: a continuous line is healthy, while gaps or spikes mean the sensor is dropping out.
Why is my mouse double-clicking on its own?
The switch inside the button has worn out. Its metal contact bounces as it closes, and once that bounce lasts longer than the firmware filters out, the computer sees two presses from one push. It is the most common way a mouse fails, it gets worse over time, and the double-click test above confirms it by showing the interval in milliseconds.
Does changing the double-click speed in Windows fix double-clicking?
No, and this is the most commonly given wrong advice on the subject. That slider sets how quickly two separate presses must arrive to count as a double-click; it does nothing about a worn switch, because the bounce arrives as two genuine presses that Windows has no reason to ignore. Adjusting it changes nothing about the fault.
Can a mouse that double-clicks be fixed?
Often, yes. If your mouse software has a debounce or click-latency setting, raising it from around 4 ms to 8-12 ms tells the firmware to ignore a longer bounce, which masks the problem at the cost of slightly more delay. The permanent fix is replacing that one switch, which is a small component — the rest of the mouse is usually fine. Claim the warranty first if it is still covered.
Which is the 3 mouse button?
Mouse 3 is the middle button — the click you make by pressing the scroll wheel down. It is confusing because two systems list the buttons in a different order, not merely from a different starting number. Games list left, right, then wheel, making the wheel third. Browsers list left, middle, then right and start at zero, making the same wheel click number 1.
Why do my side buttons not register on this test?
Most often because your browser is Firefox, which does not pass side-button presses to web pages at all — they will read as untested there even on a mouse where they work perfectly. Chrome and Edge do report them. The other common reason is simply that your mouse or laptop touchpad has no side buttons.
Why does a button work elsewhere but not in this test?
Check where you are clicking: only presses inside the bordered test area are recorded, so clicks on the rest of the page are ignored by design. Beyond that, a button may have been remapped in your mouse software to a keyboard shortcut or a macro, in which case the browser never receives a button press at all even though the mouse is fine.
Does this test send my clicks anywhere?
No. Everything runs as JavaScript in your browser, and no click, movement or measurement is transmitted or stored. You can verify it yourself: disconnect from the internet after the page has loaded and every test still works exactly the same. There is no account, and nothing is uploaded.
How long should a mouse last?
Click switches are rated in millions of presses — commonly 10 to 20 million on current mice, though older or budget models may be rated at three million. At a few thousand clicks a day that is many years, and plenty of mice pass a decade. The rating is a manufacturing average rather than a guarantee, and switches also degrade with age and contamination rather than click count alone.
How can I test my mouse for gaming?
Beyond checking that the buttons work, two things matter. Measure the polling rate to confirm your mouse reports as often as it claims and that those reports arrive evenly, since uneven reporting feels like inconsistent aim even when the average looks right. Then run the click speed test, which also flags whether a worn switch is inflating your score.
What software can I use to test my mouse?
None is needed for the checks on this page — a browser already receives everything required to count buttons, scroll directions, click intervals and movement. Your manufacturer's own utility, such as Logitech G HUB or Razer Synapse, is still worth having for what a browser cannot reach: the DPI setting, button remapping, debounce timing and firmware updates.